Srinagar, Dec 23: On quiet mornings at Dal Lake, the stillness is broken only by the soft ripple of water against ageing wooden hulls.
Shikaras glide past rows of houseboats, many of them shuttered, their carved windows closed and paint peeling under years of neglect.
For generations, these floating homes were the first address for travellers arriving in Kashmir. Today, they stand as fragile symbols of a heritage slowly slipping away.
Houseboat owners say staying afloat – both literally and financially – has never been harder.
Tourism has remained sluggish this year, particularly after the Pahalgam attack, which dampened visitor inflow across Kashmir. With fewer guests, many houseboats remain empty for weeks, even during periods that once promised steady business.
“This year has been extremely difficult for the tourism sector, and houseboats have been badly hit,” said Manzoor Ahmad Pakhtoon, President of the Kashmir Houseboat Owners’ Association (KHBOA). “Occupancy has dropped sharply. When there are no tourists, there is no income, and without income, maintenance becomes impossible.”
The numbers tell a sobering story.
A decade ago, Kashmir had around 1300 registered houseboats.
Today, only about 750 remain.
According to KHBOA estimates, nearly 750 houseboats have fallen into disrepair since 2010, with several rendered unviable for operation.
For Pakhtoon, the decline is not just statistical but deeply personal.
“If the administration continues to be indifferent to our problems, you won’t find any houseboats left in Kashmir,” he said, standing on the deck of a boat that has hosted tourists for decades.
Pakhtoon said that of the remaining 750 houseboats, many owners are contemplating exit.
“Several families are asking for land to build houses on solid ground. This is the last option for people who can no longer survive on empty rooms and mounting repair costs,” he said.
Maintenance has emerged as one of the biggest hurdles.
Houseboats, largely made of wood, require constant upkeep – timber replacement, hull repairs, and periodic refurbishment. Owners say easy finance is unavailable, permissions are difficult to obtain, and assurances have not translated into action.
“We were told subsidised timber will be provided for repairs, but nothing has happened on the ground,” Pakhtoon said. At the same time, he sought to counter criticism over environmental concerns.
“All houseboats are now connected to sewage treatment plants (STPs),” Pakhtoon said.
Owners argue that the irony is hard to miss.
Kashmir’s houseboats are projected as a unique attraction at tourism events outside the Valley, yet there is little clarity or long-term vision for their preservation at home.
“They are showcased as heritage, but treated as a burden,” Pakhtoon said. “The new generation sees no future in this trade, and that is perhaps the biggest loss.”
On Nigeen Lake, second-generation houseboat owner Muhammad Yaseen echoed the despair.
“We grew up on these boats. They are our homes and our livelihood. But today, with restrictions on renovation and no financial support, it has become impossible to sustain,” he said. His houseboat, once booked months in advance, now waits days for a single inquiry.
Built as early as the 1900s, Kashmir’s houseboats are floating museums – cedar-panelled rooms, hand-carved furniture, and verandas that open onto water instead of streets. Categorised like hotels, from luxury vessels to modest ‘D category’ boats, they once catered to travellers seeking a slow, intimate experience of the Valley. However, if the government’s indifference continues, it won’t be long before Kashmir houseboats become anchored only to memory.
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